Gone baking: Checking in to chocolate breads class at Le Pain Quotidien

 

Photo by Dawn Eguchi Jan

I may dine out more than I cook, but I’m always open to acquiring a new skill. When I took my first baking class at Fashion Island’s Le Pain Quotidien last summer, it was pretty good (considering we knew nothing about baking). Head baker and former On the Line subject Jonathan Eng emailed me about some of their new additions to the curriculum. So I grabbed a friend and checked out the Chocolate Breads course. Here’s what we took away from our afternoon of pretzels, rolls, shortbread and baguettes.

1. The ingredients are as important as the skill.

Preservative-free bread is crafted from only a handful of ingredients, so the quality of each is instrumental in a fresh product. When purchasing butter, only select unsalted. Manufacturers don’t elaborate on how much salt they put in, and you can always add, but not take away.

Brushing a thin layer of egg wash before baking gave breads an attractive sheen. We eat with our eyes, so the prettier the finished product, the better. Gently rolling shaped dough in flour adds a rustic touch when baked. One might choose to add a sprinkle of salt, giving a depth of flavor going beyond our sweet tooth.

2. Bread is pretty gassy.

getting ready to score some loaves

Scoring, or slashing dough prior to baking our baguettes, was necessary for excess gas (the bubbles that form in bread) to have a way to escape. Otherwise, the bread would expand and split open in less desirable places. The most effective tool to produce a fine line is a scoring clip with its razor sharp edge. Scoring a single, angled line lengthwise produced an “ear” effect. Another option was two shorter lines that paralleled in the middle.

Do you devour bread just out of the oven? As tempting as it was, Jonathan and his assistant Scott advised waiting at least the amount of time that it took to bake before slathering butter and partaking in some chewy goodness. Part of the reason had to do with the process. Similar to cooking steak, bread needs to rest because it continues to bake even after you take it out. Also, the gases released are still present, and ingesting them isn’t recommended.

3. Baking takes endurance. And there’s a proper way to do everything-- even taste bread.

discussing chocolate brioche

The group stood for three straight hours on a Sunday afternoon. Scott and Jonathan typically begin their work day at 3 a.m. They win.

My fingers grew weary from gripping the pastry scraper to soften butter. Patience waned as we rolled out stubborn pretzel dough studded with chocolate chips. This was not as easy as it appeared. Combining ingredients, degassing and rolling out dough made class literally hands on.

When possible, they provided comparable speed levels (for those owning a mixer) to achieve similar results. A folding technique I learned was how to fold and seal dough with a fluid movement utilizing the palm of our hand. When determining whether bread is done baking, it’s easier for bread to spend less time in the oven rather than more, because you can always add additional time.

Reminiscent of wine tasting, there’s a certain way to taste bread. You start by sampling the inside, or crumb. Then taste the outer crust, since it’s generally heartier in flavor and texture. Unfortunately, all that tasting got us craving cheese and a bottle of red.

4. Baking is for everyone. 

 

Participants included a student taking culinary classes, a stay-at-home mom and home cooks in other professions. The baking experiences we individually possessed varied greatly, yet we were all there to learn. Our instruction from Jonathan and Scott was slightly intimidating for some of us, but they demonstrated each step to put us at ease. I could see this as a group activity for a bridal shower, or even something inspiring chefs (minimum age is 11) could appreciate. Of all their locations worldwide, Le Pain Quotidien currently has two US locations offering these classes; the other is in New York City.

If you’re interested in checking out a class, may we suggest starting with either their Basics or Biscuits, Scones and Shortbread Cookies classes. Both are great introductions to baking. After precisely three hours, our daily bread was chocolaty and we lingered, sitting down to taste the fruits of our labor.

For a schedule of classes offered in Newport Beach, click here.

** Special thanks to Dawn of Spontaneous Clapping for being the coolest classmate.

Waiting at the drive-thru window, I looked down....

Pork chop bun from J&J Bakery. One of my go-to meals.

 . . . .at my check-in options. Foursquare wanted to know where I was. Dare I admit that I'm getting fast food? How much do I care about what others thought? Did it matter? Hell if I know.

I asked myself why, being forthcoming about my college degree, contributing to an alt-magazine about food, whose significant other will throw down for excellent service (which normally equates to pricey meals), why do I choose this for dinner? Reasons formulated. Arguments countered them. I sighed. My old co-worker Marissa once remarked, "Why spend money on fast food when you can get something better?" She's right to pose the question, because regardless of your background, profession, age or otherwise, you don't HAVE to eat it.

There's a perception that because I've dined at Thomas Keller restaurants and appreciate molecular gastronomy that I'm pretentious. If you've ever dined with me, you've seen otherwise. Outside of photographing my food (because most of us passionate about all things culinary anything love to--so back off), I just like to eat. When I get frustrated, I put down the chopsticks and use a fork. Chicken wings and ribs? I'll pick it up and request a handiwipe later. Here's how I decided on a fried chicken sandwich, fries and a Coke.

The easiest is to blame my upbringing. But I won't. Our neighborhood was at the top of a hill. Two miles in either direction led to McDonald's. I didn't go there all the time, though it was our  default when fast food was on the brain. When I was much younger, payday for mom meant eating out, and we would alternate between pizza and fried chicken nite. Both were little celebrations: A night off from cooking for mom, and the allure of cheesy, greasy food for us. I ate mostly home cooked meals, though.

Salt. Like how people crave chocolate, I want salt. Surprisingly, I rarely add salt to a dish outside of a recipe. A pretzel is infinitely better than cotton candy. Fries trump cake any day of the week. And when I'm on my period, I don't fight my cravings. That would be mean, and you don't want to piss off a woman on her period. Period.

Convenience sounds like such a cop out. Maybe it is. But when you know how something is going to taste, even if it's bad for you, it's a comfortable feeling. It's easy like Sunday morning. It's the drive-thru. Yeah, I know calling ahead and picking up a meal from somewhere better is possible, but it's not always preferable. I was headed to the nail salon, and didn't want to deal with food after my manicure. 

If I went out for a sit-down meal every single day, it would drive me crazy. I get bent out of shape eating leftovers more than once. Variety is possible, so I have it. Saturday is our date nite, and we always dine out. Mid-week, we might convene over pho. But a fast food chain isn't out of the question for him. A blended drink, healthy or not, is acceptable and a change of pace for me. And if it's been a rough day at work, neither one of us will fuss over a stove. Bowl of cereal. Chips and salsa. Fast food. 

I'd eat this all the time if SideDoor made it for me (and I didn't pay for parking).

So I checked in.

Backstage pass: The Bruery's barrel management warehouse

Searching for the perfect Black Tuesday sample

Over the summer, we learned more about brewing thanks to Matt Strickland, barrel manager at The Bruery in Placentia. Our fascination with beer has grown enough in the last couple of years that Matt extended an invitation to visit the warehouse he works at. Less than five miles from their headquarters, only a core group of employees and VIPs step foot in the building. Tastings here are special because most consumers never get to taste product directly out of the barrel.

During one heatwave of an afternoon (106?!) I arrive for my private tasting. It would also be Matt's last day with The Bruery, as he accepted an offer in his hometown of Nashville to work for Corsair-- an artisan distillery that's booming in all things absinthe, rum and gin. While I was sad to see him go, he was cool enough to guide me through all things barrel-aged.

An error in photo rotation, or the result of one too many tastes?

Only about 40% of their inventory is stored here. Everything else is contained down the street in stainless steel tanks that patrons get a glimpse of while visiting their recently opened tasting room. The warehouse itself is peaceful, except for my heels clacking on the concrete. Like one massive walk-in closet for beer, it's stacked high with barrels. I was reminded of my recent visit to Napa, minus the cavernous tunnels. The front room was pleasantly lit and air-conditioned, so we began our tasting here with Sour in the Rye and a sampling of next years Oude Tart. Matt pulls samples in a fashion similar to whiskey distillers, drilling holes and using nails to seal. He also takes care in sanitizing the area surrounding the barrels to ensure zero chance of growth outside of them. Our rye was recently brewed and tasted mild in comparison to the tart. A drain system runs beneath us, taking the place of spit buckets (who doesn't finish their beer?!) and acting as an "out" in the event of a barrel mishap. Before moving on, I shake hands with another Matt (director of retail) as he heads out for a meeting at their Provisions store.

My tour moves to the sour room, where all the funky bacteria is allowed to work their magic. Here we find some special batches like Christmas beer, based on the famous 12 days. I spot a few barrels of Four Calling Birds, set aside for special release to their reserve society. Matt explains how almost everything here is blended mixing some parts old and some new. Their goal is to create a flavor profile that is similar enough from year to year. Sometimes, adding a young component with a distinct character might provide a positive impact on a batch. Older contributions are upwards of two to two and-a-half years old. After an agreed upon aging period, they will go straight to bottling.

Charlotte, 1.5 years old

Smoking Wood is our next taste. At 10%, it is the lowest in alcohol, but the most difficult to brew. Nobody knows why, except maybe because of the large proportion of rye used. It's already a temperamental grain, despite being used in many of their beers. Typical brewing process lasts six hours; brewing Smoking Wood lasts anywhere between 10 to 12. Its flavor reminds me of backyard barbecues. In contrast, he pours their Anniversary beer. The gimmicky recipe is almost identical from year-to-year, matching the amount of grain to the year it's brewed. Therefore, this year's batch contains 2,012 pounds of grain. A tasty blend, the Old Ale style is our favorite of the six, tasting more like hard liquor.

This brings us to our final two selections. Matt wanders down a dimly lit aisle, selecting an appropriate Imperial Stout for the brew that would be known as Black Tuesday. Aged in Bourbon barrels for over a year, this year's vintage was recently bottled in preparation for its October 30 release. A name with dual meaning, not only is it a nod to the Great Depression, but also for the exhausting brewing circumstances it was created under. The final photo is of Charlotte's Beer, named after the daughter of founder Patrick Rue. A taste of this was a rare treat, since it will never have a public release. Created specifically with her in mind, this is held in eight brand new, American Oak barrels, and will age until Charlotte's twenty-first birthday. It began at 21%, but Matt predicts it will be upwards of 27 to 30% once she is old enough to taste it. A beautiful amber, it is strong with a smooth finish. Beer by definition, Charlotte's Beer was made with 51% corn mash to resemble bourbon.

Thanks to Matt, I have a new appreciation for sour beers and the process that parallels winemaking. I don't know if our paths will ever cross again, but it was a pleasure to make his acquaintance.

The Bruery 

717 Dunn Way

Placentia

www.thebruery.com

Heart my pizza. . . .

This week, our freelancing duties found us sitting down with Sid Fanarof, founder of zcafe and zpizza. After the usual formalities, I kicked off our discussion with the usual, "If there's anything you'd like to add that wasn't covered in the questionnaire. . ." Well, Sid proceeded to speak for another hour. We're still pouring over the content.

Before heading to our desk job, Sid asked us to try two new dishes that are in the works. As zcafe is about to celebrate its first birthday, they want to continue to create innovate additions to their menu. I'll admit, I didn't use to like zpizza (their parent chain, 100+ locations strong worldwide). I grew up on very run-of-the-mill chain versions. I did evolve to Chicago-style, but alas, it's difficult to locate truly good deep dish (unless you're Tony's Little Italy in Placentia).

The z team creates a cracker-like crust-- not too doughy, but not so thin as Neapolitan.  Enough toothsome bite to withstand a few layers of toppings. On this day in particular, Sid was concerned about the crust. He explained that when there's a lot of humidity, the crust doesn't rise as high. You'll notice fewer bubbles around the edges.

Our first rustica flatbread was a take on a Margherita. Blanketed in burrata and basil pesto,whole mini cherry tomatoes are dropped down to blister, and a generous sprinkle of fresh basil completes the sharable plate. With each bite, the subtle burst of tomato juice releases enough acidic flavor to offset the creamy mozza. It is as lively as the flag it's modeled after.

Our second experiment was reminiscent of Olive Garden's attempt to plate salad on pizza. In theory, not a bad idea; but OG's was poorly executed for a number of reasons (one of which was choking on a forkful of both salad and pizza). Additional hesitation braced us when we opened the box and were caught off guard by the aroma of citrus. While this appetizer also included burrata on a cracker crust, the similarities ended there. Thin-sliced prosciutto, arugula, pear, an olive oil drizzle and lemony zest make for more of a salad to us. Dare we even try it? Of course, and with a smile.

This dish in particular reminded me of a realization I had about food. When it comes to a few ingredients (blue cheese and arugula being two of them), our palates are most at ease once aforementioned items are paired with at least one other taste. Steak with blue cheese, or arugula with sliced pears, for example. By themselves, ack. In conjunction, complementary. It's really about having the right pairing that matters. In this case, the salty ham, acidic fruit, peppery greens and fresh cheese balanced each other out. We were pretty impressed by the combination.

If you find yourself across the bridge at South Coast Plaza craving a casual bite, we suggest stopping by. The secret: park yourself in the outdoor patio on one of their couches. People watch, have a beer and just chillax. Just don't bug the Apple employees on break.

zcafe

3333 Bear Street

Costa Mesa

714.545.5500

www.zcafe.biz

Irvine on Irvine: Robert discusses the city

Larger than life. Seriously.

If you follow OC Weekly's Stick A Fork In It, you'll know I've spent A LOT of time at OC Fair this year. Some would say too much, and they are probably right. Hey-- when you're given access to all things food-related for a month, try to turn it down.

I have a friend who has the last name Coto. When she would visit a real estate pal for lunch, my friend would get looks and whispers because office staff would assume she's associated to Coto de Caza (ground zero for the Real Housewives franchise). So when I first heard of Robert Irvine, I would think, "Does he even know he shares a name with a city?" As the opportunity to interview Robert came up, I knew this was my chance to ask. But to drive the point home, I procured an article of clothing from City Hall, just for effect.

Sizing was impossible, like his show, because, "I'm very thin here (waves at waist), but I'm wide here (gestures to shoulders). All my jackets are made now." I knew that would be an issue, so XL and explaining how I wanted it to fit comfortably around his (massive) arms excused me from embarrassment.

So did he know about Irvine the city? YES! This is his tale.

I went to a Ford dealership in Irvine many, many years ago to see the Ford DB9 [pretty sure he meant Aston Martin, but they're all the same parent.]. The only reason I went there was because I was so in love with this car. I didn't get paid for the appearance, just so you know. They flew me in, and they had this vehicle in a ball of water [only in Irvine....]. And I'm like, "You gotta take this out. I wanna drive this car." 

They couldn't take the car out of the water because of whatever reason, but they got me a DB9 to drive. And if I died and gone to heaven now, I've driven it, so it doesn't matter. It's a once in a lifetime drive. 

And the t-shirt? He loved it, (to his agent) "I want an Irvine city. Like this one, though."

Naturally, the topic became him being mayor of his own city. "I wouldn't be a good mayor. Everybody would be off at 12, in the bar, drinking. But they would have to work out at 9 o'clock the next morning. No later than 9." 

We can do that, Robert. 

Is it Sweet or is it Saucy? How about both?

After a dinner at Bluefin, Mastro's Ocean Club, or even Javier's, you may find the need to walk it off. Unfortunately, 99% of Crystal Cove Promenade is closed after 7 p.m. So unless you're browsing the slim pickings at Pacific Whey, finding sugar is as difficult as locating a parking spot. Melody Brandon saw the demand for dessert and launched her second Sweet and Saucy shop last month. I stopped by with my friend Suki before heading to a party for some photos and take-out.

While patrons can opt to breathe the ocean air on a sun drenched bench or shady table, our preferred seat is on the shabby chic sofa welcoming you upon entry. Flecked with pillows in neutral patterns, we almost mistake our setting for a tea lounge. As with their neighbors, the room takes on an airy nature from the whitewashed walls and natural light flooding in.

Be our guest

A feature not found in their Long Beach flagship: a refrigerated case where clients can request small quantities of chilled treats (as opposed to placing a larger minimum order when catering). Of the four shot glass-sized tastes, we salivate over strawberry shortcake and raspberry chocolate mousse. While they do remind us of Seasons 52's minis, we're pretty sure caloric breakdown is not taken into consideration.
 

Chill out

Vintage-inspired dishware somehow transforms otherwise trendy morsels into old-fashioned bites of nostalgia. Delicate lattice top caramel apple or peach pies and classic key lime tastes require no further explanation. On our diet, they all count as a daily serving of fruit. How pretty is that plate?

dainty

If you're still not convinced, peer towards the back of the store and find a collage of their features. Over a dozen publications showcased the delectables at one time or another. The table adjacent to us conducted a tasting-- probably based on one of the reviews on their wall.

For themed events, Brandon will do custom orders to your liking. Check out the petite Mason jars layered with red velvet cupcake and frosting. It coordinates nicely with her patriotic cupcakes. Not pictured were mini apple pies on-a-stick. Seriously. We don't joke about dessert.
 

Sweet and Saucy Shop 
7922 East Coast Highway, Newport Coast
(949) 715-0920
www.sweetandsaucyshop.com.

 

On the Line: Anne Marie Panoringan, Parts Two & Three

The holiday weekend winds down with a continuation of me interviewing me. This is probably too much information, but it's worth it for my friends coming up to me to say they've learned something new (or in one person's case, that they already know me).

Read our interview with Anne Marie Panoringan, Part One.

And now, on to Parts Two and Three. . . . 

Part Two 

Boudin's clam chowder

When you're not in the kitchen cooking, what are you doing?

Working on one of my other commitments. Or seeking out my next blog post. 

Last song playing on your radio/smart phone/iPod:

I'm pretty sure it was a song by Nicki Minaj.

Where did you grow up? If you’re not from Orange County, what brought you here?

I’m a Bay Area gal. I transferred to Cal Poly Pomona to complete my degree. I thought it would be three years, and back home. It was quite the contrary.

Do you like to do anything besides go out to eat?

I have the shopping gene. And lately, I’ll sleep more than exercise. But when I’m out and about, it’s yoga and training for my first half-marathon.

Hardest lesson you've learned:          

How to take criticism. You just do.

What’s your favorite childhood memory?

Taking the 21A SamTrans bus to Serramonte or Stonestown to run errands or meet my friend for Boudin clam chowder in a bread bowl.

Favorite Halloween costume:

The hubby and I were Bill Clinton and Monica Lewinsky. He wore an entire suit, minus the pants. I had a beret and navy dress smeared with cream cheese. Classy, huh?

What were you up to five years ago?

Doing facilities management for a financial services company. I worked with foodservice, engineering, security, housekeeping, and many other vendors. We had a 30+ acre property, including parking structures and landscaping. Over 2,500 associates relied on us to keep them comfortable. Talk about internal clients.

Favorite holiday and why:

My birthday. I pamper myself at the spa and plan wherever the hell I want to eat.

 

Last book you read or last movie watched; how was it?

A neighbor just emailed me Fifty Shades of Grey. It trumped my hard copy of (Bourdain's) Medium Raw.

When you use the internet, what’s on your homepage?

The Krazy Coupon Lady, but I think I want to change it to Anderson (Cooper); he is so quirky and oddly grey.

Last thing you looked up/searched online:

The lipstick Kristin Chenoweth was wearing; it was called Fire In The Hole. Can’t figure out who makes it.

Do you have any skills that are non-food related? What are they?

I LOVE to organize. And I play well with others.

What would you be doing if you weren't in this business?

Maybe doing personal assistant work or event planning. I enjoy spending other people’s money.

So I know it's a cop out on the original questionnaire to not include a recipe, so in lieu of that I'm gonna do what I am comfortable with - answer more questions!

Part Three

Kitchen blackboard at Red Table

Food weaknesses?

Brownies. Bananas. Truffles (mushrooms, not desserts). Caviar. Risotto. Deep dish pizza.

Do you really hang out with Edwin?

It would be easier for me to say PSYCH -- It's Gustavo! But yeah, we sit down for a meal maybe monthly. I have a lot of respect for him, and am thankful for our friendship.

We hear you love music.

I have eclectic taste that's influenced by the people I'm around. My childhood was a mix of Casey Kasem's America's Top 20, KMEL r&b/hip-hop, and oldies my parents loved. In college, it was a mix of KKSF smooth jazz, young country and Japanese anime soundtracks (Robotech's Lynn Minmei has special meaning).

Nowadays I'm addicted to Alt-Nation on Sirius XM: Airborne Toxic Event, Cage the Elephant, Imagine Dragons, Chappo, Bombay Bicycle Club, Black Keys, Foster the People.... it goes on and on. Still love all things current, though.Oh, and we scored tickets to Young the Giant this summer. Yay!

Why don't you report on more hole in the wall places?

Mainly because the rest of the team does such a fantastic job of it already. And because Mr. brekkie fan has a thing for fancy places. 

How many times have you been to French Laundry?

Five dinners over the course of 11 years. Our initial visit was probably my first real experience with fine dining. And that's where the real love affair with food began.

Give us more chef dish!

Besides the fact that I couldn't think straight when interviewing Michael Chiarello? Louie Francis Jocson (Red Table) has this chalkboard in the kitchen where they had a list of people who tried balut. Awesome! Alan Greeley is a potty mouth, but since he's a culinary bad ass it doesn't matter. One guy chef totally dissed a gal chef as I interviewed him. Awkward.

Do you give a lot of restaurant recommendations?

It depends. I ask people about distance, price range and who they are going to be with. The best thing I can ask someone is what they don't want, and work from there. For a family chain, Lazy Dog Cafe. Affordable upscale - easily the prix fixe lunch at Marche Moderne. For Asian food, I refer a lot of them to Edwin's blog.

My approach is very 'big picture'. Seafood lovers would enjoy House of Big Fish and Ice Cold Beer IF they understand that it's not a quiet place, but you can't beat the location and prices; plus I'd remind them that it's mostly meter parking until 7 o'clock. A lot of factors go into giving any sort of recommendation.

Where haven't you been that you want to check out?

Well, I still want a dining companion for Pizzeria Mozza in Newport. I've done the LA outpost, and fell in love with sweetbreads and real mozzarella, just haven't done the pizza yet. There's a Thai place inside the OC Badminton Club that I'm curious about, just because I like the random combination. Hangar 24 in Redlands for a proper beer tasting. And one of Anahita's hidden dinners.